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Exploring the Enchantment of Kerala Backwaters

  • Sreejith TR
  • Jun 3
  • 12 min read

Updated: Jun 13

SAIL THE SOUL OF GODS OWN COUNTRY.



Tranquil water, endless green rice paddies, peaceful, rich vibrant vegetation, groves of

towering sentry like coconut trees, vivid sunsets, striped with orange, red and gold these

are the canvas that often come to mind when imagine of the kerala backwaters. An

interconnected network of lakes, rivers, canals and lagoons along the kuttanad region.

This is just one of the many incredible experiences that make India a truly diverse and

exciting destination for travellers.




Kerala’s backwaters offer two premier houseboat destinations—Alleppey and

Kumarakom—each providing a unique blend of scenic beauty, local culture, and floating

comfort.

In Alleppey, known as the “Venice of the East,” travellers navigate a dense network of

canals, lakes, and lagoons, witnessing vibrant village life and the iconic Nehru Trophy

Boat Race during August

Kumarakom, situated on the eastern banks of Vembanad Lake, offers a quieter, more

nature-focused experience with fewer boats, expansive lake views, and proximity to the

Kumarakom Bird Sanctuary, making it ideal for birdwatchers, honeymooners, and those

seeking solitude.



From Kettuvallam Roots to Floating Retreats.


Houseboats in Kerala—locally known as Kettuvallams—evolved from traditional cargo

vessels into luxurious floating accommodations that offer an immersive journey through

the state’s famed backwaters. Originally used for transporting rice, spices, and goods

between remote villages and ports, these boats date back centuries and were constructed

without nails, using local materials like jackfruit wood, bamboo, and coir ropes.



Over time, pioneering designs introduced by visionaries transformed Kettuvallams into

modern, eco-friendly houseboats equipped with bedrooms, bathrooms, dining areas, and

solar panels, making them one of Kerala’s premier tourist attractions. Today, over 2,000

houseboats ply the interconnected network of canals, lakes, and lagoons—classified by

the Kerala government into platinum, gold, and silver categories—providing varying

levels of comfort and luxury. Guests can choose from day cruises, overnight stays, or

extended multi-night journeys, all of which showcase Kerala’s lush paddy fields, coconut

groves, and vibrant village life, while savouring authentic Kerala cuisine served on

board. With routes centred around Alleppey, Kumarakom, and Kollam, houseboats

appeal to honeymooners, families, and nature enthusiasts alike, offering a unique blend

of cultural immersion, scenic beauty, and environmental sustainability


Drift into the authentic experience.

Let's dive into the on-board experience, boarding from Kumarakom at noon with warm

welcome from the houseboat crew, the houseboat is widely regarded for its premium fleet,

blending traditional charm with modern luxury. Each vessel features spacious bedrooms,

crisp linens, contemporary bathrooms, and elegantly furnished lounges, all constructed from

eco-friendly materials. Personalised service from dedicated onboard staff, ensuring seamless

comfort and privacy.



Once the boat start sailing after from the upper deck can witnesses a slow dance of water and landscape, where emerald paddy fields and coconut groves blur together under a gentle

breeze. Midday reveals women washing clothes on stone steps, fishermen operating Chinese fishing nets, and coir-making units where artisans process coconut fibre into rope, blending human activity seamlessly with natural surroundings.

Through every moment, the soft lapping of water against the hull and the rhythmic hum of

the engine composes a tranquil lullaby, inviting into a meditative state far from

urban clamour.


THE GOLDEN HOUR OVER PADDY FIELDS.



In late afternoon, as your houseboat moves from narrow canals into the wider expanse

of Vembanad Lake, the sun casts a golden glow across emerald-green paddy fields that

fringe the water’s edge. The tall coconut palms sway in a gentle breeze, their long fronds

creating lace-like shadows on the water’s surface, while birds such as darters and

cormorants tuck into roosting spots on half-submerged logs.


The fairy sunset reflections- the sun plunges closer to the horizon, setting the sky ablaze

with crimson, magenta, and amber hues that melt into one another. As the sun finally

disappears, violet and indigo shades seep into the sky, gradually giving way to dusk’s

cool blue. The transition is gradual yet dramatic: first the sun’s centre vanishes, then its

rim dips below the palm-lined shore, and moments later, only a faint glow remains on

the lake’s surface.



These colours transform the lake into a living canvas—each gentle ripple capturing

fragments of the sky’s palette and scattering them across the waterl

Around sunset, small riverside shrines and temples along the banks come alive as bell

chimes and evening prayers drift across the water. Women light tiny oil lamps on house

doorsteps, their soft flicker visible from the deck. children play along muddy shores, their

laughter fading with the last light. As dusk deepens, fireflies emerge from the reed beds

lining the canal banks, their intermittent glow reminiscent of floating lanterns. Their

flickering is accompanied by the rhythmic croak of frogs and occasional hoot of owls,

creating a nocturnal symphony that underscores the region’s biodiverse richness.


MORNING BLISS.


The eastern sky begins to brighten. Golden streaks of dawn pierce the mist, and the lilies

awaken: their petals unfold toward the sun, revealing vibrant pinks and whites that seem to

glow from within. Each flower floats serenely, its reflection almost perfectly replicated on the

still water below, creating a diamond-studded mosaic as mist lifts from the lake’s surface.



As sunlight intensifies, hundreds of lilies dot the water around your boat, forming an

undulating carpet of pastel hues—rosy pinks, pure whites, and delicate lavenders . The pads

themselves are a rich green, some partially submerged, others rising just above the surface,

creating a layered effect as if you were floating above a living painting.

Above this sea of lilies, waterbirds begin their chorus. Kingfishers flash bright turquoise as

they hover over the pads, diving silently to snatch small fish. the splash of a fish breaking the

lily pad’s surface, the rustle of reeds as a fish’s tail swishes below, and the soft murmur of

villagers in the distance preparing for their day and the devotional songs from temples

Occasionally, a fisherman’s canoe drifts into view, its long paddle barely making a sound as

he navigates through the blooms.




Starting the day with a black coffee or a tea and you sip the steaming beverage while seated

on a woven mat at the bow, inhaling the sweet fragrance of lilies mingled with coconut oil

from nearby huts . The warmth of the cup in your hands contrasts delightfully with the still-

cool morning air, and you realise that here surrounded by boundless water and flowers—time

itself has slowed to a gentle drift



Remembers of Water Weaves Village Stories.




Kerala’s backwaters are not just waterways but living, breathing communities where

village life unfolds along the edges of Vembanad Lake. Drifting gently aboard a

houseboat, you witness an intimate mosaic of everyday activities—coir-making, fishing,

floating markets, and temple rituals—that have endured for generations. From early

dawn through twilight, each moment reveals a new layer of village charm: women

washing clothes on riverbanks, toddy shops tucked under coconut palms, children

paddling coracles to school, and fishers hauling in freshly caught bounty. This immersive

journey offers a rare glimpse into a world where water is both highway and lifeblood,

seamlessly blending human tradition with Kerala’s lush natural scenery.





Coir-Making and Cottage Industries.


Mid-morning, your houseboat glides past clusters of coir-making units were artisans

pound coconut husks into coarse fibbers. Rhythmic hammering echoes across the canal

as strands of fibre twist into sturdy ropes and woven mats, keeping a centuries-old craft

alive in village life.




Beyond coir, you may encounter small groups engaged in mat weaving or pottery along

muddy banks. Women sit under coconut palms, weaving reed mats that will one day

serve as flooring in distant homes, while others mold terracotta pots that reflect local

traditions. Each piece crafted here bears the imprint of palm-shaded lanes and backwater

breezes, sold at local stalls or floated down canals to bigger markets


Floating Markets and Fishing Life.


houseboat drifts into areas where floating markets emerge—small coracles laden with

fresh fish, vegetables, and fruits. Vendors paddle alongside, offering baskets of pompano,

prawns, bananas, and jackfruit to passing boats. The transaction is immediate: cash or

barter in exchange for produce plucked from nearby groves or nets. Villagers assemble at

the water’s edge to trade, their chatter blending with gull cries and the gentle lapping of

water against hull.





As afternoon light grows bright, Chinese fishing nets—iconic wooden structures—tilt

overhead, suspended by bamboo beams. Fishermen haul nets with practiced ease,

emerging from the water with buckets of silver-hued fish, ready to be cleaned under

palm-fringed huts. This catch often finds its way to houseboat kitchens.



Paddy Fields and Agricultural Rhythms


Beyond village fringes, vast paddy fields stretch to the horizon, their emerald stalks

swaying as your boat passes. During planting season (June–July), villagers wade through

knee-high water to plant seedlings by hand; come harvest (October–December), bundles

of rice stand in golden rows awaiting threshing. This cyclical rhythm of cultivation is

inseparable from backwater life, as canals double as irrigation channels, sustaining the

“rice bowl of Kerala”.




Farmers guide plow bulls/tractors through flooded paddies, preparing land for the next sowingcycle. Watching them work, you appreciate how agriculture and watercraft complement each other: plows tremble in water as boats pass, reflecting an unbroken continuum of sustenance.



Duck farming is also a prominent traditional practice here. It's a crucial source of income.

and food security for many villagers, with many households keeping ducks as part of

their daily lives. Ducks are raised in the backwaters and paddy fields, utilising the natural

ecosystem for their sustenance and benefiting local agriculture through pest control and

manure.


Village Temples &Shrines.



Temple towers (gopurams) punctuate village skylines, visible from your houseboat as

you glide past. During festivals—particularly Onam in August–September—processions

of caparisoned elephants and flutes accompany prayers, their sound echoing across the

lake. Even on ordinary days, temple priests perform poojas at dawn, lamps flickering in

stone sanctums while devotees offer coconuts, flowers, and rice.


Bird watching.



Bird watching in Kerala’s backwaters, particularly around Kumarakom and Vembanad

Lake, offers an immersive experience where serene waterways intersect with rich avian

biodiversity. From November to February, migratory species such as Siberian cranes,

pintails, and teals arrive, while resident birds—Indian darters, little cormorants, herons,

and Brahminy kites—inhabit the mangroves and marshes year-round. Houseboats glide

silently through narrow canals at dawn, allowing visitors to spot kingfishers hovering

over lily-strewn shallows and egrets wading in reflective waters. over 115 bird species,

making Kerala’s backwaters a premier bird-watching destination.






Toddy shops and Coconut toddy tapping.



In Kerala, the experience of visiting a toddy shop and witnessing coconut toddy tapping

offers a vivid blend of cultural tradition, rural artistry, and sensory delight. Toddy

tappers, known locally as “Paniyans,” ascend tall coconut palms with remarkable

agility—often walking tightropes between trees—to make small incisions in the palm

inflorescence, allowing the sweet sap (neera) to collect in earthen pots or bamboo cups.

This fresh sap begins fermenting almost immediately, transforming into toddy—a mildly

alcoholic, mildly effervescent beverage prized for its sweet‐sour flavour.



When you arrive at a rustic toddy shop—often a thatched‐roof hut beside the backwaters—you are greeted by the sight of clay pots lined up under swaying palm fronds, a symphony of

wooden stools, and the low murmur of locals savouring their midday respite.

A typical toddy shop in Kerala is a modest, open‐sided hut constructed from bamboo

and coconut fronds, perched along a canal or rural road. Inside, low wooden benches

and stools cluster around simple wooden tables, and the air carries a heady mix of

fermenting sap, coconut husk, and spicy cooking aromas. Locals arrive in flip‐flops or

bare feet, greeting each other friendly as they settle in to enjoy a pot of toddy and relish

the communal atmosphere.

Toddy is freshest and sweetest in the morning hours and the evening when the sap has

just begun fermenting. Request neera (unfermented sap) or early‐hour toddy to

experience its mild, almost juice‐like taste.



Drift & Dine the Floating Feast.


The food experience on a houseboat cruising Vembanad Lake is a carefully orchestrated

journey through authentic Kerala flavours, featuring freshly caught fishes, prawns,

scampis, mussels, crabs, local produce, and traditional cooking techniques that reflect

the region’s backwater heritage. Meals are prepared onboard by dedicated chefs using

ingredients sourced from nearby villages and the lake itself, ensuring unparalleled

freshness and a vivid connection to local agrarian and fishing communities.

The houseboats feature a compact galley where a skilled chef and supporting crew

prepare meals fresh each day. The galley is equipped with a gas stove, cooking utensils,

and a small pantry stocked with staples such as rice, lentils, spices, and coconut oil—

essentials for crafting traditional Kerala dishes .



Crew members often begin their work before dawn, fetching unloading fresh produce from village markets and fresh fishes from the fisherman’s to ensure ingredients are at peak freshness.Local fishermen supply fresh catches—karimeen(Pearl spot), school prawns, scampi,mud crabs and mussels with shell—often delivered directly to the deck, reinforcing the houseboat’s close ties to lake-based livelihoods.


Breakfast on a Vembanad Lake houseboat usually features Kerala specialties such as

appam (soft, lacy rice pancakes) served with vegetable stew—a mild coconut-based curry

with mixed vegetables.Alternatives include idiyappam (string hoppers) accompanied by

egg curry or chicken curry, showcasing the blend of rice-based staples and protein-rich

accompaniments that kickstart the day.

Freshly brewed filter coffee is served in small stainless-steel tumblers, delivering a robust

caffeine kick, Alternatively, houseboats may offer tea infused with spices or tender

coconut water, providing a refreshing, hydrating start to the morning cruise.



The centrepiece of lunch is usually red matta rice—nutty and earthy—served alongside

an array of curries and side dishes that define Kerala cuisine.A classic fish curry, often

made with pearl spot (karimeen) or seer fish, is prepared in a tangy gravy of coconut

milk, tamarind, and freshly ground spices, reflecting flavours unique to the backwaters.

Vegetable thoran (stir-fried greens or beans with grated coconut), sambar (lentil and

vegetable stew), rasam (spicy, soupy broth), and pappadam accompany the rice, offering

diverse textures and tastes.


Evening Tea and Sundowner Snacks will stimulate yourself, Banana fritters (pazham

pori), Uzhunnu vada (crispy lentil doughnuts), Parippuvada (lentil frites) pairs

beautifully with the steaming tea.

Dinner aboard a houseboat tends to be lighter than lunch, emphasising one or two main

dishes alongside rice or chapatis (wheat flatbreads) Popular choices include chicken

curry or vegetable stew, often served with chapatis or idiyappam, to enjoy a balanced

meal before retiring.


PADDLES OF PRIDE GOD'S OWN WATERS- BOAT RACE.



Kerala’s backwater boat races, collectively known as Vallam Kali, are spectacular

cultural events that draw thousands of spectators each year. These races feature long,

narrow boats—most famously the Chundan Vallam or “snake boat”—manned by up to

128 paddlers who row in perfect unison to the rhythm of traditional Vanchipattu (boat

songs)

The modern era of Vallam Kali began in 1952 when Prime Minister Jawaharlal Nehru

visited Kerala and was greeted by a fleet of snake boats on Punnamada Lake near

Alappuzha. Enthralled by the spectacle, Nehru donated a rolling trophy for the winning

boat, officially inaugurating the Nehru Trophy Boat Race, which has been held annually

ever since. This race was not tied to any religious ritual but rather symbolised Kerala’s

post-independence cultural revival, quickly becoming Kerala’s premier sporting and

touristic event.



Types of Boats

• Chundan Vallam (Snake Boat) -These boats are traditionally 30–35 meters long,

tapering at both ends with a raised prow that resembles a cobra’s hood and a capacity

for 64–128 paddlers seated in two rows

• Churulan Vallam-Shorter than the Chundan (around 12–15 meters), with a curved

prow; often used in shorter, regional sprints.

• Iruttukuthy Vallam (Dark cutter)-boats that prioritise speed; narrower and lighter,

they host 16–20 paddlers and race over 2–3 kilometer’s.

• Veppu Vallam (Odi Vallam)-Traditional cooking boats repurposed for sport;

recognisable by their broad midsection and shallow draft, used in village-level

contests.


Race Day: Rituals and Festivities

Pre-Race Preparations

• Boat Blessing & Poojas: Before each race, purification rituals are performed boats

are sprinkled with holy water, and priests chant mantras to invoke divine

protection and success.

• Mass Drill & Synchronisation: About 30 minutes before the start, boats perform a

mass drill where paddlers execute synchronised strokes in place, followed by

rhythmic Vanchipattu songs that in-still unity and boost morale.

The Race Start

• Boats line upside by side at the starting line; at the signal horn, all boats surge

forward in unison, creating a thunderous roar of coordinated oar strokes.

• The initial sprint is crucial; boats jostle for position in the first 500 meters, after

which they settle into a steady rhythm despite fierce competition.

Spectator Engagement

• Riverbank Crowds: Thousands gather along the shores and makeshift vantage

points—bamboo stands and wooden platforms—waving flags and beating drums

to cheer their favorite boat clubs.

• Live Broadcast & social media: Races like the Nehru Trophy and President’s

Trophy are televised live on regional channels and streamed online, drawing

lakhs (hundreds of thousands) of remote viewers, including diaspora

communities.




Experiencing the rhythmic enthusiasm is vibrant, boats perform a mass drill, where paddlers

synchronise their strokes to Vanchipattu, building anticipation as drums beat in crescendo. Asspectators settle and vendors complete their stalls, the lake itself becomes a floating

grandstand—houseboats jockey for position just outside the racing channels, offering

uninterrupted views of the competition. The initial blast of the horn sends dozens of Chundan

Vallams rocking forward in a thunderous surge, eliciting loud cheers and drumbeat

resonances that echo across surrounding villages.



On race day, Punnamada Lake’s normally serene banks transform into a sea of humanity,

with an estimated 200,000 spectators, including locals and tourists, packing the shorelines,

houseboats, and temporary platforms to witness the spectacle. The energy is palpable as

vendors sell banana fritters, spiced cashews, and tender coconut water, while local families

arrive en masse, turning the event into a communal celebration.

Kerala’s boat races epitomise the harmonious interplay of sport, spirituality, and community,

where long narrow boats hewn from age-old craftsmanship glide in rhythmic unison to

ancient songs and rituals. From the thunderous energy of the Nehru Trophy to the sacred

Aranmula Uthrattadi Vallamkali, these events uphold Kerala’s identity as “God’s Own

Country” by marrying cultural heritage with contemporary relevance.




As we bid adieu to this platform , we carry forward the essence of Kerala’s backwaters- a celebration of life, simplicity and profound beauty that lies in every day. We Hope that the tales we’ve shared that sparked a desire to explore, to connect and cherish the world around us. Thank you for being a part of this adventure!

 
 
 

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